This is the nucleo in Merida, capital of Merida StateWow, it's been over a month and so much has happened! Apologies for lack of entries, but hopefully I'll get caught up within the next 2 weeks, or, before I go back to the U.S. (I'll be back May 1st to Chicago). Since I last wrote, Sebastian visited and we went to Merida (I had been there in November briefly) for research for me and to Isla de Margarita for vacation. Then, I was whisked off to Ecuador for a Fulbright regional enhancement seminar for a week, where they pulled together all the researchers in the Andrean countries (in this case, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru and Venezuela). We presented on our research, talked a lot and had a ton of fun.
But back to March. My visit to Merida was a whirlwind orchestra tourism time, including a concert conducted by my good friend Carlos (who just got a job and left Caracas for Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic) and visits to various nucleos in the region. There are 14 in Merida state, and many are doing very interesting things. I'll comment on two, I went to both in what was probably one of my best days in Venezuela.
Merida is one of the few places in Venezuela that currently has an orchestra program in a jail. This should be prefaced by a brief introduction to Venezuelan jails. Prisons in Venezuela are notorious for being almost entirely lawless, inmates are often able to smuggle in guns and drugs, and create their own gangs and form hierarchical networks of loyalties. A few weeks ago there was a gang fight that broke out in a jail and 14 people died. If they have weapons, why stay in jail? Most of them would have no where to go if they broke out, and in prison they get free meals. Criminals of all different sorts are thrown together.
The prison orchestra program (now almost 3 years old in Venezuela) is challenging these relationships and creating new opportunities and skills for the inmates. I went one morning to the program in Merida, which currently functions 9-11am and 2-4pm, where inmates receive group classes and have rehearsal. The program in Merida has a space inside the jail with some individual trailers for music lessons, everyone else practices in hallway spaces. Alejandro, the oboe professor there, had 2 students but just received 2 more new oboes the day I went, so was initiating others. He said that he had seen remarkable progress in the men in the program; over time they increased their ability to focus and concentrate, and were developing teamwork skills. The orchestra has 50 or so members overall, all men. Alejandro mentioned that he has had trouble retaining students because they make parole.
One of the students I taught (always under close supervision by guards and the other teachers) had had his shoes stolen the day before, so was barefoot. He was the most advanced student, having played for almost a year. He had been in prison 8 years, but was hoping to get out in a few months. What would he do after prison? He wanted to keep playing the oboe.
When I left the prison, I jumped on a bus for two hours the opposite direction into the Andes, the region called the Paramo (technically this is the altitude that is above the tree line but below the snow line). The ride was spectacularly beautiful, winding through small Andean towns with colonial architecture and signs boasting traditional artisan wares and trout fishing. I arrived to Mucuchies, at 3000M, to teach the two oboe students at the nucleo there. I met with the director, Roraima, a woman who had been instrumental in the development of the nucleo as well as involved in El Sistema for 25 years. She was convinced that her work is making a difference in the lives of children, of the 6000 residents of the municipality, there were 360 children in El Sistema programs. They use a variety of spaces, from the Casa de la Cultura to a local school, and sports arena. She said that one of the largest struggles they have had is to create a musical culture in this part of the Andes, and has worked to make parents understand the importance music can play in their childrens' personal development. I proceeded to spend a few hours teaching two young and very talented students-the altitude made it difficult for me to play, but they huffed right along. It was quite the day!
